Aromatic Rice Dish and Thick-Cut Spicy Pumpkin: Flavorful Indian-Style Pumpkin Recipes

It's squash season and my favourite season, not least for all the curries and other comfort food of autumn. Today's Rajasthani sautéed dish is a regular in my kitchen, and the blend of ginger, chili and jaggery lends it a lovely flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, long-grain rice and clarified butter, which provide enhanced flavour to the strata of grains and vegetables.

Squash and Mushroom Biryani

National curry week begins around early October, so how perfect to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the vegetable curry component in advance and assemble all components on the day you want to serve.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or use butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, to garnish

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

For the biryani
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the curry base. Heat the ghee in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, add the cumin seeds, bay and clove spices, and sauté for a few seconds. Stir in the onion slices and cook, stirring often, for about half an hour, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a plate and reserve (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the fresh chilies and ginger strips to the onions in pan, fry for a minute, then stir in the tomato puree, chili powder, turmeric and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Reduce to a low heat, blend in the yogurt and simmer for two minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then fry for several minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Heat until boiling, then lower the temperature, cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes, mixing midway to ensure no sticking to the base of the pot. Garnish with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the rice, then place it in a pot with a quart of water and the bay, cardamom and salt. Heat to boiling, cook for around ten minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then strain.

For assembling the biryani, place a tablespoon of warmed ghee in a casserole pot for which you have a secure cover. Spoon one portion the spiced vegetables, then top that with some the rice. Sprinkle a portion the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint, cardamom powder and garam masala, then top with the caramelized onions. Layer with the remaining vegetable curry, then arrange the leftover rice. Finish with the remaining ghee, saffron liquid, ginger, mint, cardamom powder and spice mix.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then cook on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas soak into the rice. Take out of the heat, leave to rest, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then remove the lid and present with yogurt sauce and fresh salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Indian word "achari" refers to flavouring a preparation using pickling spices, and the combination includes mustard, fennel, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, asafoetida and nigella, but their use extends beyond in preserved foods. The blend also features in all manner of spiced dishes and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Place the mustard seeds, fenugreek and fennel seeds in a spice grinder, crush coarsely, then reserve. Put the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Add the crushed spices and the hing, and sauté, stirring, for a few seconds. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then stir in the pumpkin pieces, chilli and turmeric, and fry, stirring, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount water to the pot, season with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Add the palm sugar, crushing some of the pieces a little, then add the mango powder, mix thoroughly and present hot with flatbreads or leavened bread.